{"id":19014,"date":"2015-06-13T09:30:36","date_gmt":"2015-06-13T16:30:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/forallevents.com\/reviews\/?p=19014"},"modified":"2015-06-14T09:01:50","modified_gmt":"2015-06-14T16:01:50","slug":"cleanliness-and-fragrances-reviews-and-essay","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/forallevents.com\/reviews\/cleanliness-and-fragrances-reviews-and-essay\/","title":{"rendered":"Cleanliness and Fragrances — Reviews and Essay"},"content":{"rendered":"

Cleanliness and Fragrances — Review Essay<\/strong><\/p>\n

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Fragrance Reviews begin at the end of this essay.\u00a0 <\/strong><\/p>\n

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Because of the savour of thy good ointments thy name is an ointment poured forth, therefore do the virgins love thee.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Song of Songs 1:30<\/p>\n

Who is this that cometh out of the wilderness like pillars of smoke, perfumed with myrrh and frankincense, with all powders of the merchant?\u00a0\u00a0 Song of Songs 3:6<\/p>\n

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Most people, throughout most of history, in most times and places, most of the time, stunk.\u00a0 Left unattended the human body will stink to high heaven in a very short time.\u00a0 It is eminently natural to stink.\u00a0 It is said that the Mongol army could not launch a surprise attack because it was possible to smell them from twenty miles away.\u00a0 They prided themselves on never bathing.\u00a0 They were barbarians.\u00a0 The Mongols did not torture people to death, unlike most civilized societies of their time (Weatherford, pp. 115-16).\u00a0 The Romans and most other civilized societies made torture a public spectacle to entertain and intimidate their citizenry.\u00a0 They were sadistic.\u00a0 What made the Romans civilized and the Mongols barbarians was that the Romans took baths and the Mongols stunk. \u00a0The Mongols believed that a person’s body odor was part of their soul (Weatherford, p. 12) , and this probably was part of the reason they refused to bathe — in addition to the scarcity of water on the Central Asian steppe.<\/p>\n

It is the practice of bathing, the attendance on personal hygiene, the mitigation of offensive odor from the body, rather than moral superiority, that distinguishes civilized people from uncivilized. \u00a0Not stinking, or actually smelling good, is the mark of civilization. \u00a0One of the most commendable achievements of modern capitalism is that it has made people smell better.<\/p>\n

In former times the practice of bathing was much less common and human body odor was ubiquitous, although attitudes toward body odor and bathing are highly variable from culture to culture (Ashenburg, Introduction).\u00a0 The ancient Egyptians were known for being fastidious about bathing and personal cleanliness (Ashenburg, p. 6).\u00a0 They were one of the earliest civilizations.<\/p>\n

It was Christian hatred of the body that brought about the demise of the Roman public baths and ushered in a long era of despising and devaluing bodily cleanliness and sanitation (Ashenburg, p. 58f.)\u00a0 From the 16th to the 18th centuries it was not unusual for people to go for a year or more without ever bathing.\u00a0 Even the aristocracy was noted for rank malodor (Ashenburg, Ch. 4).\u00a0 Queen Elizabeth I bathed once a month “whether she needed it or not” (Ashenburg, p. 99).\u00a0 If the queen only bathed once a month, imagine what the rest of the people were like.\u00a0 It was a different time.<\/p>\n

This long era of filth and stink in the western world began to recede in the last half of the eighteenth century and accelerated in the nineteenth, especially with the advent of running water in the home.<\/p>\n

As cities expanded, and people worked close to one another in crowded offices and factories, they grew unhappily aware of the smells produced by their own bodies and those of others.\u00a0 The arrival of women in the work world accelerated this new sensitivity.\u00a0 The fastidiousness that had first surfaced, tentatively, in late eighteenth-century Europe was becoming an American obsession.\u00a0 At the same time, prosperity was at an all time high.\u00a0 People could afford the products that would enable them to live in a smell-less zone, a safe place where they would neither “offend” nor be “offended.” (Ashenburg, p. 244)<\/p>\n

Advertising campaigns in the 1930s and 40s promoted deodorant, shampoo, and razors to women, and later sanitary napkins (Ashenburg, p. 5).\u00a0 A major industry has been built in the twentieth century around suppressing natural body odor and replacing it with something supposedly better.<\/p>\n

My own attitude is that one should have to get pretty close to another person in order to smell their body.\u00a0 Smell is intimate, and one’s personal body odor should be largely private.\u00a0 If you can smell a person from more than a few feet away (and that includes perfume, or anything), that person is not civilized and is out of place in a modern society.<\/p>\n

“the slovenly folk, who have been going on the theory that they can take a bath or leave it, are to be brought to their senses,” (NYT, July 10, 1927.\u00a0 Ashenburg, p. 255)<\/p>\n

“Odors are unnecessary and those that have them are violating rules of courtesy.” (Ashenburg, p. 254; quoting Hadida, 1932, pp. 98-104)<\/p>\n

“Smelling someone’s real body or allowing your own body to be smelled has become an intrusion, a breach of a crucial boundary.”\u00a0 (Ashenburg, p.271)<\/p>\n

San Luis Obispo, CA, law bans people from the library for having offensive odor.\u00a0 This provision was part of a list of disruptive behaviors prohibited from the library.\u00a0 (Los Angeles Times, March 5, 2005.\u00a0 Ashenburg, p. 273)<\/p>\n

Why not make scentless the modern ideal, since ever greater cleanliness seems to be the American way?\u00a0 There is a lot to be said for that, and the only argument I would make against it is that people have always smelled, and so we are accustomed to our bodies emitting odors and to perceiving the odors of others.\u00a0 If we are going to smell, why not smell good rather than offensive?\u00a0 Scentless in my view is too conservative and carries the war on body odor to an untenable extreme.\u00a0 The aesthetic I advocate is that body odor should be minimal and not intrusive or attention seeking, pleasing if possible, but at least minimally offensive.<\/p>\n

The word ‘perfume’ comes from the Latin per fumum <\/em>meaning “through smoke.”\u00a0 (Morris, p. 16)\u00a0 The earliest perfumes were likely the burning of wood or meat to offer a pleasant savor to the gods.\u00a0 Burning incense to the gods was a widespread practice in the ancient world. (1 Kings 11:8, Ezekiel 6:13)\u00a0 The sweet smell of the incense was judged to be pleasing to the gods and the rising smoke and fragrance would carry aloft the prayers of the people and provide a pleasing presentation to the deities.\u00a0 In the thirtieth chapter of Exodus God commands Aaron to build an altar and burn incense on it.<\/p>\n

Of shittim wood shalt thou make it. . . And Aaron shall burn thereon sweet incense every morning: when he dresseth the lamps he shall burn incense upon it.\u00a0 And when Aaron lighteth the lamps at even, he shall burn incense upon it, a perpetual incense before the Lord throughout your generations.\u00a0 Exodus 30: 1-8<\/p>\n

Of the three gifts that the wise men brought to the baby Jesus, two of them were fragrances.\u00a0 In a world where obnoxious smells were the rule, pleasing fragrances were valued on a par with gold.<\/p>\n

There is archeological evidence of a thriving perfume industry on the island of Cyprus as early as 2000 BC.\u00a0 Perfumes have been found in Egyptian graves going back to 3000 BC.\u00a0 (The Scotsman: Scotland on Sunday<\/em>, September 21, 2014)<\/p>\n

A pleasing fragrance, a sweet savor, was thought to be better than the ordinary rancidness of daily life and thus worthy of presentation to the gods.\u00a0 So also in perfuming the body one gains favor and elevates oneself in the noses of one’s peers and especially in one’s estimation of oneself.\u00a0 One gains in self confidence and self esteem knowing that one’s fragrance is apt to make one pleasing and attractive to others.\u00a0 A pleasing fragrance is a sign of cultivation, sophistication, aristocracy.<\/p>\n

The European tendency to be more accepting of the stink of everyday life is a cultural difference which I regard as somewhat primitive.\u00a0 You have to keep in mind that the smells that come off of our bodies are the result of bacteria and fungi inhabiting our skin and orifices and these organisms can be pernicious. They can create infections, irritations, illnesses.\u00a0 They can cause your teeth to rot and fall out.\u00a0 The odor that we perceive is only the first indication of their presence in significant numbers and the impact they are beginning to have on our bodies and health.\u00a0 Body odor tells us that it is time to wash off the bacteria before things get worse.\u00a0 Modern hygiene has made us healthier and lengthened our lives — not to mention improved the aesthetic quality of our personal interactions.<\/p>\n

The modern perfume industry began in the eighteenth century, mainly in France and Germany, with the return of bathing.\u00a0 As people bathed their bodies they found it pleasant to anoint themselves with fragrant waters and oils.\u00a0 The spread of the use of fragrance grew in conjunction with the development of porcelain ceramics and glass which were used to make containers for these fragrant concoctions, because they would not react with the fragrant oils and extracts in the perfumes.\u00a0 (Morris, 1999, pp. 74-82)<\/p>\n

This nascent perfume industry, catering as it did to the aristocracy, was nearly obliterated in the French Revolution.\u00a0 However, Napoleon Bonaparte, who came to power in 1804, was a dandy, who was very conscientious about bathing and hygiene, even on military campaigns, and he revived the perfume industry in France, giving it generous support and encouragement (Morris, 1999, pp. 84-87).\u00a0 The discovery of chemical solvents in the 1830s that allowed for the extraction of exotic scents from many flowers and plants that had never been possible before, led to an explosion of perfume manufacturing.\u00a0 Many of the major perfume houses that exist today got their start in the nineteenth century.\u00a0 It was the growth and rising affluence of the middle class and the increasing attention to bathing and hygiene that fostered this prodigious growth of the perfume industry.<\/p>\n

Today the fragrance industry is a multibillion dollar worldwide behemoth that employs sophisticated technology, marketing, and huge budgets for product research and development.\u00a0 The Perfect Scent<\/em> by Chandler Burr is an excellent inside look at this modern industry.\u00a0 I am not going to go into surveying it here.\u00a0 I think this is long enough already.\u00a0 But Burr is an excellent, knowledgeable writer whose books are readable and very interesting.<\/p>\n

I want to make one more philosophical foray into aesthetics and taste before I leave you to peruse my reviews of individual fragrances.\u00a0 Ashenburg gives an unwarranted amount of space to Sissel Tolaas, who runs a research lab in Berlin devoted to scent (Ashenburg, 2007, pp. 271-74).\u00a0 Among other projects, the lab is building an archive of scent which includes over 7000 aromas neatly labeled and catalogued.\u00a0 Tolaas hopes to develop a vocabulary of fragrance that will allow us to describe and discuss fragrances in words for which for which our current linguistic capability is dearth.\u00a0 These are laudable projects and I do wish her success in these efforts and I remain interested in her progress.\u00a0 Where I differ with Tolaas and the slant that Ashenburg gives to her, is her aesthetic.\u00a0 It is best illustrated by an anecdote that she relates herself:<\/p>\n

Once at the Berlin Film Festival I wore a beautiful evening dress and put on a smell which was the absolute contrast — the smell of garbage and the stench of dogshit!\u00a0 And people were completely confused because the way I looked and the way I smelled had nothing to do with each other.\u00a0 And I had the most fun time in my life!\u00a0 In this case the purpose of smell was to say “leave me alone.”<\/p>\n

Normally the role of smell in our society is to say “come to me!” but I did the opposite and I succeeded.\u00a0 Maybe at some point we will have smells for different purposes, the “stay alone” smell, “come halfway” smell, “come close” smell.\u00a0 What’s wrong with that?!”\u00a0 ( Tolaas, Huffington Post<\/em>, September 24, 2013)<\/p>\n

What’s wrong with it is that you don’t need smell to communicate those intentions, and Tolass was sending out a very mixed message by her appealing dress on the one hand and her offensive odor on the other.\u00a0 The point was to create confusion in people and thus draw attention to herself.\u00a0 She was at an event where everyone would be dressed fashionably and thus dress alone may not have been sufficient to make a distinguishing splash, so she doused herself in stink in order to make herself stand out from the crowd.\u00a0 A kind of grandstanding with odor and dress.\u00a0 There is also a hostile, contemptuous element in it.\u00a0 It’s childish.<\/p>\n

My view is that smells are mostly offensive, probably 80 percent, ranging from the mild to the disgusting.\u00a0 The evolutionary purpose of smell was primarily to warn us of danger and secondarily to help us find something to eat.\u00a0 In civilized societies the role of smell in meeting these needs has been minimized and thus smell has been freed from its primary function of perceiving hazard to offering the possibility of aesthetic enhancement, in the same way that clothing has gone beyond simply protecting us from the elements to making a personal statement about ourselves in society.\u00a0 Deliberately wearing a fragrance to make oneself stink in public is either a reflection of low self esteem and the anticipation of rejection, or a childish, sassy provocation.<\/p>\n

Luca Turin has a somewhat different sensibility and aesthetic.\u00a0 But he is French and Italian.\u00a0 He tells us<\/p>\n

France is a country of smells. . . The idea that things should be slightly dirty, overripe, slightly fecal is everywhere in France.\u00a0 They like rotten cheese and dirty sheets and unwashed women\u00a0 (Burr, 2003, p. 3-4).<\/p>\n

I noticed that in many of the fragrances that Turin favors and praises.\u00a0 They sort of stink.\u00a0 He thinks it is sophisticated to like these somewhat offensive smells.\u00a0 I think it is civilization turned on its head.\u00a0 One might question whether Turin speaks for the whole kingdom of France, but his comments are echoed by Henry Miller writing in Paris in the 1930s<\/p>\n

That’s the first thing that strikes an American woman about Europe — that it’s unsanitary. (Miller, p. 137)<\/p>\n

Chandler Burr rightly calls Luca Turin the “Emperor of Scent.”\u00a0 Turin probably knows as much as anyone alive about scent, its history and the contemporary industry of scent.\u00a0 In addition he has an extraordinarily discerning and well trained nose for grasping the ingredients and building blocks of a fragrance.\u00a0 In presenting these fragrance reviews here I don’t claim anywhere near the skill and sophistication that Turin has to offer.\u00a0 He is the unquestioned master.\u00a0 His perception of odors is unmatched and his ability to analyze the compositions of perfumes are far more precise than my own.\u00a0 I am totally untrained in the language of fragrance and the building blocks of modern perfumes.\u00a0 Everything I have picked up on my own, with gaps and limitations.\u00a0 The differences I have with Turin are in taste.\u00a0\u00a0 What one chooses to wear, in both clothing and in fragrance, has to do with personality and style and the image one wishes to project in the world.\u00a0 In this we have substantial differences, and this is reflected in our respective evaluations of perfumes.\u00a0 It is also true that perfumes can smell differently on different person’s bodies.\u00a0 That might also be a source of difference in some evaluations.\u00a0 Turin’s Perfume Guide<\/em> is the standard classic on this subject.\u00a0 Anyone who is with more than a passing interest in perfumes should have it.\u00a0 I used it to help select some of the fragrances to sample.\u00a0 I did not consult it in formulating my evaluations.\u00a0 My evaluations and comments on the fragrances are my own.<\/p>\n

Every fragrance listed here I have used on my body.\u00a0 Most of the time I bought small samples and wore them for a couple of days.\u00a0 In many cases one day was enough.\u00a0 My comments are generally spare, mostly little more than a reaction.\u00a0 In rare cases I have changed my mind after a second try.\u00a0 Usually I know right away whether I like something or not.\u00a0 However, perfumes change on the body after some time wearing them.\u00a0 Some perfumes might start out good and then slide downhill after a couple of hours.\u00a0 Less often they will start out somewhat negative and then evolve in a pleasing way later on.\u00a0 All of the fragrances that I tried are marketed as “Men’s” or “Unisex.”\u00a0 There are women’s fragrances that I like, but since I haven’t worn them or tested them myself, I didn’t think it was appropriate to include them in this list.<\/p>\n

I also tried a number of “essential oils” in an effort to sharpen my powers of discernment of the components of a fragrance.\u00a0 I don’t know that it helped all that much, but I listed my comments on the essential oils as well.<\/p>\n

After some debate I decided to list the fragrances in alphabetical order.\u00a0 This posed some problems because some fragrances are known by the perfume house that created them, but many are known by their trade names, with the name of the manufacturer being less well known.\u00a0 I have tried to list them by the manufacturer, but some that are better known by their trade name may be listed that way.\u00a0 If you are looking for something and you don’t find it by the manufacturer, try looking for it by the commercial trade name.<\/p>\n

A key to the entries.\u00a0 If a fragrance has a + after it, that means I like it.\u00a0 If you see ++, then it means it is on my shopping list, or I may have bought a bottle of it already.\u00a0 The vast majority of commercial fragrances I do not like and would not wear.\u00a0 So these reviews are overwhelmingly negative.<\/p>\n

Chandler Burr’s estimation of the typical commercial masculine fragrance is as follows:<\/p>\n

The surefire formula for making a bestselling masculine seems simply to be mixing together enough dihydromyrcenol (laundry detergent) with the smell of metal garbage can to choke a horse, then topping that with the scent of cryogenically frozen citrus peel dusted with DDT and a whiff of recycled plastic.\u00a0 Chrome<\/em> is fit, at 10 percent dilution, for controlling weeds on your lawn.\u00a0 Aramis<\/em> makes a fine garage floor sterilizer.\u00a0 But following a plan of simply pumping out some metallic doesn’t always work.\u00a0 All sorts of things that smelled of the effluent of arms manufacturing plants were put on the shelves every year and, for some reason, refused to sell.\u00a0 (Burr, 2007, p. 151)<\/p>\n

I’m not as caustic as that, but I understand where he is coming from.\u00a0 However, what I do like, I like a lot, and I admire expert perfumers who are able to create interesting, unique fragrances that have a pleasing effect.\u00a0 I plan to update this list from time to time as I try new samples.<\/p>\n

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References<\/strong><\/p>\n

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Ashenburg, Katherine (2007)\u00a0 The Dirt on Clean:\u00a0 An Unsanitized History<\/em>.\u00a0 New York:\u00a0 North Point Press.<\/p>\n

Burr, Chandler (2003)\u00a0 The Emperor of Scent:\u00a0 A True Story of Perfume and Obsession<\/em>.\u00a0 New York:\u00a0 Random House.<\/p>\n

Burr, Chandler (2007)\u00a0 The Perfect Scent:\u00a0 A Year inside the Perfume Industry in Paris and New York<\/em>.\u00a0 New York:\u00a0 Picador\/ Henry Holt.<\/p>\n

Hadida, Sophie (1932)\u00a0 Manners for Millions:\u00a0 A Correct Code for Pleasing Personal Habits for Everyday Men and Women<\/em>.\u00a0 New York: Doubleday, Duran & Co.<\/p>\n

Miller, Henry (1961)\u00a0 Tropic of Cancer<\/em>.\u00a0 New York:\u00a0 Grove Press.<\/p>\n

Morris, Edwin T.\u00a0 (1999)\u00a0 Scents of Time:\u00a0 Perfume from Ancient Egypt to the 21st Century<\/em>.\u00a0 New York, Boston, London:\u00a0 Metropolitan Museum of Art, Bulfinch Press\/Little, Brown & Co.<\/p>\n

Turin, Luca and Sanchez, Tania (2009)\u00a0 Perfumes:\u00a0 The A-Z Guide<\/em>.\u00a0 New York and London:\u00a0 Penguin Books.<\/p>\n

Weatherford, Jack (2004)\u00a0 Genghis Khan and the Making of the Modern World<\/em>.\u00a0 New York:\u00a0 Three Rivers Press.<\/p>\n

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The Fragrances<\/strong><\/p>\n

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A*Men by Thierry Mugler\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Smells like the Wysteria incense my dad used to burn.\u00a0 But also has a strong vanilla fragrance that becomes dominant.\u00a0 Very durable.\u00a0 Too sweet and perfumey for me.\u00a0 Womanish.\u00a0 A woman could wear this.<\/p>\n

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Agonist\u00a0 Black Amber\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Rather light, grassy, hint of vanilla, some wysteria if applied more heavily, vaguely pleasant, not strong, not durable<\/p>\n

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Agonist\u00a0 Dark Saphir\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Fresh, Soapy, clean, little bit smoky, pleasant, not bad, durable\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 +\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Second time better, more smoky, incense, pungent, good\u00a0 ++<\/p>\n

Agonist Infidels\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Smoky, herbal, kind of biting.\u00a0 Nice.<\/p>\n

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Amouage Ciel Man\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Citrus, lime, fresh, clean, something slightly dark, not strong, not durable<\/p>\n

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Amouage Epic\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Nothing<\/p>\n

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Amouage Gold\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Detergent, stinking, offensive<\/p>\n

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Amouage Honour\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Spicy, smoky, fresh, clean\u00a0 very durable\u00a0\u00a0 + +<\/p>\n

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Amouage\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Journey Man\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 smoky, spicy, pungent, clean, rather nice.\u00a0 Softens later on but still retains its spicy character.\u00a0 Very durable.\u00a0 Excellent.\u00a0\u00a0 ++<\/p>\n

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Amouage\u00a0\u00a0 Jubilation\u00a0\u00a0 XXV\u00a0 Mens\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 smoky, moderate, durable\u00a0\u00a0 + +<\/p>\n

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Amouage Lyric\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Detergent, chemicals, durable<\/p>\n

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Amouage Memoir\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Fresh & light at first, smoky, can’t make up my mind.\u00a0 Second try:\u00a0 Negative.<\/p>\n

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Amouage\u00a0 Opus VIII\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Rancid, watery, rotting vegetables, foul,\u00a0 not strong, fortunately not durable, threw it out<\/p>\n

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Amouage Puro\u00a0 Nejma\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Fruity, rich, dark, pungent\u00a0 Durable\u00a0\u00a0 Excellent\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 + +<\/p>\n

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Amouage Silver\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Moth balls, offensive, choking<\/p>\n

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Andy Tauer\u00a0 Lonestar Memories\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Stinks\u00a0 chemicals\u00a0 detergent\u00a0 very durable<\/p>\n

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Anise\u00a0\u00a0 — Smells like licorice, but better than licorice.\u00a0 It has a sweetness and a smokiness, rather pungent.\u00a0 Very pleasant and fresh.\u00a0 Could wear it alone.\u00a0 Fairly durable.\u00a0 I only used a very little bit.<\/p>\n

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07-31-14\u00a0\u00a0 Tried a bit of anise w a little bit of lime oil on top.\u00a0 At first it smelled a little rancid, then got itself under control.\u00a0 The lime seems to freshen and brighten the anise, but the lime disappears quickly, but then occasionally reappears from time to time.\u00a0 Anise is much stronger and more durable than the lime.\u00a0 Good mix.<\/p>\n

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Anubis\u00a0 Papillon Artisan Perfume\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Musky, woody, little spicy, fairly strong, not bad, not durable<\/p>\n

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Armani\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0Acqui di Gio — watery, somewhat offensive, very durable, definitely a no<\/p>\n

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Armani\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Light, fresh, little bit spicy, not durable. \u00a0So light hardly noticeable.\u00a0 Don’t really like it.<\/p>\n

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Armani \/Prive \u00a0Ambre Soie\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Light incense, Pleasant,\u00a0 not long lasting\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 +<\/p>\n

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Aspen\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Very nice.\u00a0 Fresh, woodsy, clean, slightly bitter, but pleasantly so.\u00a0 The opposite of sweet powdery, perfumey.\u00a0 Has a kind of tang, but not citrus.\u00a0 Very interesting.<\/p>\n

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Bogner Wood Man\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Light, pleasant, slightly perfumey.\u00a0 Not much.<\/p>\n

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Bulgari Pour Homme —\u00a0 Light, watery, little bit detergent.\u00a0 Don’t like it.\u00a0 Very durable.<\/p>\n

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Bulgari Aqua Marine Pour Homme\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Clean, fresh, watery.\u00a0 Not offensive but not compelling either.\u00a0 Fairly durable.<\/p>\n

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Burberry\u00a0 Brit — Spicy\u00a0 >\u00a0 Old Spice Lite\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 durable\u00a0 not bad<\/p>\n

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Burberry London — Grassy, citrus, light OK, but not much<\/p>\n

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Burberry\u00a0 Touch —\u00a0 Grassy, pungent, watery.\u00a0 Don’t care for it.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Burberry Weekend\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Fresh and clean, little bit grassy, little bit spicy.\u00a0 Maybe a little bit soapy, but that fades.\u00a0 Durable.\u00a0 Rather fresh and pleasant.\u00a0 Not all that bad.\u00a0\u00a0 +<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

By\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Dolce Gabana\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0Sweet, perfumey, light, slightly watery, little bit sickening.\u00a0 Not distinctive.\u00a0 Unfortunately rather durable.\u00a0 Threw it out.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Calvin Klein\u00a0 Obsession —\u00a0 Spicy > Old Spice but light,\u00a0 OK usable, but not impressive<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Canati\u00a0 — Sweet, musty, pungent > mothballs\u00a0\u00a0 don’t like it<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Calvin by Calvin Klein\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Light, fresh, kind of spicy, reminiscent of new carpet.\u00a0 Durability only moderate<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Carrot seed — Essential oil.\u00a0 grassy, waxy, little bit sharp, herbal.\u00a0 Not strong, not durable.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Cuiron Helmut Lang\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Nothing.\u00a0 Couldn’t smell it.\u00a0 Very indistinct, no character.\u00a0 Later becomes watery and gains strength.\u00a0 Very unimpressive.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Cedarwood —\u00a0 Essential oil.\u00a0 Heavy, musky, woody.\u00a0 Without the sweetness and freshness of real cedar.\u00a0 Not very durable.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Clove bud —\u00a0 Essential oil.\u00a0 Smells just like cloves.\u00a0 Spicy, pungent.\u00a0 Lovely.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

CB I hate Perfumes\u00a0 Lavender Tea Absolute\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Fairly strong\u00a0 Long lingering\u00a0\u00a0 +<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Compagnia del Indie\u00a0 Vetyver\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 light pleasant\u00a0\u00a0 not long lasting<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Carven\u00a0 Vetiver\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Nothing much.\u00a0 OK.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Charvet Cuvee Speciale\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Stinks and is durable.\u00a0 Double negative.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Charvet Cuvee Special\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Stinks<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Comme de Garcons Avignon\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Incense, Smoky, very strong, pungent,\u00a0 use sparingly\u00a0 very durable\u00a0 gets better\u00a0 ++\u00a0\u00a0 Bought larger sample\u00a0 Very strong, pungent, very durable, Too much.\u00a0 \u00a0Sweet.\u00a0 Threw it out.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Courduroy by Zith\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0Sweet, perfumy, womanish.\u00a0 Fairly durable<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Clive Christen\u00a0\u00a0 X for Men\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 A little too sweet.\u00a0 Durable<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Clive Christian No. 1 for him\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Grassy, stinky.\u00a0 Nothing.\u00a0 Short-lived.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Creed Vetyver\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Nothing special<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Creed Green Irish Tweed —\u00a0 Grassy, Fresh, clean, later spicy.\u00a0 Durable.\u00a0 Nice one.\u00a0 ++<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Creed Royal Water\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Grassy, little bit spicy, very light.\u00a0 Not durable. Unimpressive<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

D & G Masculine\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Spicy, some citrus, rather pungent, little musky,\u00a0 pleasing, becomes sweeter after a while, somewhat oppressive, quite durable.\u00a0 I’m giving it a \u00a0\u00a0+ but I don’t wear it very much because it’s after effect is so strong and lingering and frankly rubs me the wrong way.\u00a0 It is much better when you first put it on.\u00a0 If it would disappear after a couple of hours, I would be much more inclined to wear it.\u00a0 It makes a good impression, but then hangs around too long.\u00a0 +<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Dark Blue by Hugo\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Sort of stinks, sweat plus baby powder,\u00a0 not durable, fortunately<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Davidoff\u00a0 Hot Water —\u00a0\u00a0 Sweet, sickening, threw it out<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Davidoff\u00a0 Cool Water — Spicy, fresh, little bit pungent,\u00a0 pretty good<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Davidoff Cool Water\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Edt\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Very light, fresh, hint of pine, unimpressive<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Declaration by Cartier\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Sweet, syrupy, perfumey, sickening, offensive.\u00a0 Strong, enduring.\u00a0 After 3 hours had to wash it off, but it still lingered.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Dior Homme\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Very light, fresh, little grassy, powdery, womanish, next to nothing, powdery smell becomes stronger.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Donna Karan Fuel Original\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Not bad, Nothing special<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Dunhill Black\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Little grassy, musky, fresh, light,\u00a0 not impressive, not durable.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

English Pear and wild flower — Essential oil.\u00a0 Strongly soapy, choking,\u00a0 grows more intense.\u00a0 Very durable.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Egyptian Musk — Essential oil.\u00a0 Fresh and clean.\u00a0 Little bit soapy.\u00a0 Very light.\u00a0 Hardly smell it.\u00a0 Emerges later.\u00a0 Watery, clean.\u00a0 Somewhat durable, but fades.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Escada Pour Homme Light Silver Edition\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Clean, fresh, slightly smoky,\u00a0\u00a0 Not real strong.\u00a0 Moderately durable\u00a0 Pleasant.\u00a0 +<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Etro\u00a0 Messe de Minuit\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Smoky, pungent, durable\u00a0\u00a0 excellent\u00a0 + +<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Exceptional —\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Grassy, light, insubstantial.\u00a0 Not impressed<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Fennel — Essential oil.\u00a0 Pungent, sharp, spicy, clean > anise.\u00a0 Later becomes sort of toasty, but sweet.\u00a0 Durable.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Frank No. 1\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Frank Los Angeles\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Fresh, clean, herbal, fruit > grape juice? little bit smoky.\u00a0 Nice.\u00a0 Not strong.\u00a0 Not durable.\u00a0 Unimpressive.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Frankincense — Essential oil.\u00a0 Light, clean, woodsy, not much.\u00a0 At first I could hardly smell it at all.\u00a0 After about half an hour a beautiful smoky, wood fragrance emerges. \u00a0It is not strong, but it is marvelous.\u00a0 An exhilarating surprise.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

French Lavender —\u00a0 Essential oil.\u00a0 Fresh, clean, musky, very light at first but grows stronger and lasts all day.\u00a0 Becomes spicy, little bit smoky.\u00a0 Very pleasant.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur edp\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Urine plus Vanilla<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Fueguia 1833\u00a0 \u00a0Darwin\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0Fresh, clean, woodsy > pine,\u00a0 nice,\u00a0 good one\u00a0\u00a0 fairly durable\u00a0\u00a0 ++\u00a0 I’m going to get this one.\u00a0 Excellent.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Fueguia\u00a0 1833\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0Otro Peoma de los Dones\u00a0\u00a0 Musky, dusky, rotting leaves, not much<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Fueguia 1833\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Pulperia\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Grassy, pungent, sharp, smoky, different, not bad, sort of fresh and clean, interesting, not real durable\u00a0 +<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Givenchy Eau de Vetyver\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Musty\u00a0 Durable<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Grey Flannel\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Musky, pungent, little bit grassy, decomposing vegetation, Little bit stinking, little bit shit, musty, Smells like a horse barn, but without the sweetness of hay.\u00a0 There is a vague medicinal quality, but it is very remote.\u00a0 Becomes somewhat soapy.\u00a0 Don’t really like this, but it is wearable.<\/p>\n

Gucci Pour Homme\u00a0 (2003)\u00a0\u00a0 Smoky, pungent, strong, but not overwhelming, use sparingly, durable.\u00a0 Very good one.\u00a0 Discontinued.\u00a0 Has become expensive on the secondary market.\u00a0\u00a0 ++<\/p>\n

Guerlain\u00a0 Apres L’Ondee\u00a0\u00a0 Edt\u00a0\u00a0 Very fresh and clean, kind of spicy, earthy.\u00a0 Little bit sweet.\u00a0 Maybe a hint of citrus.\u00a0 Well balanced.\u00a0 Sort of womanish.\u00a0 The sweetness seems to grow, but does not become too much.\u00a0 The earthiness holds it in check.\u00a0 I wouldn’t buy it, but it is very pleasant.\u00a0 Fairly durable.\u00a0 Luca Turin likes this one. \u00a0+<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Guerlain\u00a0 Bois\u00a0 D’Armenie\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Vanilla\u00a0 Pleasant, sweet<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Guerlain\u00a0 Derby\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Grassy, fresh, very light, hint of pine, not much<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Guerlain\u00a0 Jicky\u00a0\u00a0 EDP\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Grassy, little bit pine, clean, light, unimpressive<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Guerlain\u00a0 Mitsouko\u00a0\u00a0 EDP\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Musky >\u00a0 Patchouli\u00a0 Fresh, not strong, not impressive<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Guerlain\u00a0 Mitsouko\u00a0\u00a0 Edt\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Little bit Pine, Little bit Musky, little bit horseshit, not real strong, not to my taste<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Geurlain Sous le Vent\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Stinks<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Guerlain Vetyver\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Stinks<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Halston Z12\u00a0 New bottle 08-14\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Little grassy, little musky, little rough like sandpaper, not sweet, powdery, flowery, or perfumey at all.\u00a0 Totally unwomanish.\u00a0 Not real strong.\u00a0 There’s a freshness to it.\u00a0 Clean smelling but not soapy.\u00a0 As it goes on becomes stronger and more pungent.\u00a0 The freshness and lightness disappears.\u00a0 I like it rather less after an hour or so.\u00a0 Becomes detergent-like.\u00a0 Astringent.\u00a0\u00a0 Very durable and exceedingly strong.\u00a0 I don’t like this.\u00a0 I think I am going to throw it out.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Helmut Lang Cuiron\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Almost nonexistent.\u00a0 Very light.\u00a0 Pleasant.\u00a0 Practically nothing.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Hermessence Poivre Samarchande\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Nothing<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Hermessence Vetiver Tonka\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Light grassy, fresh, not durable<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Histoires Parfums\u00a0 1740\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Woodsy, herbal, rotting vegetation, strong, not durable<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Histoires Parfums 1899\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Little spicy, maybe citrus, little musky,\u00a0 not strong. Later spicy vanilla.\u00a0 Pleasant.\u00a0 Just a whisper.\u00a0 Not strong, but has some durability.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Histoires Parfums\u00a0 Vidi\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Watery, soapy, little herbal, light.\u00a0 Herbal grows stronger and later dominates.\u00a0 Little bit spicy or smoky.\u00a0 Durable.\u00a0 Interesting mix, but too soapy for me.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Hyssop — Essential oil.\u00a0 Turpentine, Eucalyptus, pungent.\u00a0 Later softens, less astringent, vaguely sweet.\u00a0 Rather nice.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Intoxicated\u00a0 Killian\u00a0\u00a0 Little spicy, maple syrup, pancakes, not strong, not durable<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Jean Paul Gautier Le Male —\u00a0 Vanilla, womanish\u00a0 don’t like it<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Jo Malone Ambr & Lavender\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Nothing special<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Jo Malone \u00a0Lime Basil & Mandarin\u00a0\u00a0 Fruity, lime, clean, little bit sweet, on the light side, not impressed<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Juniper — Essential oil.\u00a0 Woodsy, musky, fresh, reminiscent of pine, but the muskiness and woodsiness give it a different character<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Kinski\u00a0 Eau de Toilette\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 chemicals, sweat, mildly offensive, vaguely fresh\u00a0 durable<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Kinski\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Eau de Toilette\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 grassy, soapy, musky, hint of pine, rather pungent, not offensive, but not to my taste, after a while somewhat fresh, watery, not bad as a change of pace, fairly durable\u00a0\u00a0 Second try.\u00a0 Do not like this.\u00a0 Rancid.\u00a0 Grassy.\u00a0 Offensive.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Knize Ten\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Grassy, little bit shit, or decomposing vegetation.\u00a0 Pungent shit smell grows stronger with time.\u00a0 Fortunately not real durable.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

L’Art de la Guerre\u00a0 Jovoy\u00a0\u00a0 Clean, minty, perhaps a little musky, not strong, not durable.\u00a0 Not much.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Lanvin\u00a0 Vetyver\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Light, pleasant<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Le Labo\u00a0\u00a0 Santl 33\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Little grassy, little watery, little musky, fresh, not strong, not durable<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

L’occitane Vetyver\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0Light, almost nonexistent<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Lubin Idole Edt\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0Nothing<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Lubin\u00a0\u00a0 Korrigan\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0Musky, incense, rotting leaves, not strong, becomes softer, sweet, finally kind of powdery, womanish, durable.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

MEMO\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Quartieer Latin\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Little bit sweet, flowery, musky, not strong.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

MDCI Ambre Topkapi \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0Light\u00a0 Citrus, Fresh\u00a0 Not much<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Mohave Ghost\u00a0\u00a0 Byredo Parfums\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Herbal, little watery, little musky, light, not distinctive<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Montale Dark Aoud\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 chemicals, detergent, but clean smelling\u00a0\u00a0 durable<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Moroccan Myrrh — Essential oil.\u00a0 Sweet, spicy, extremely light.\u00a0 Can hardly smell it.\u00a0 Later it emerges.\u00a0 Sweet.\u00a0 Maybe a little herbal.\u00a0 Pleasant.\u00a0\u00a0 Fairly durable.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Narciso Rodriguez Musc for Him\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Oily, grassy,\u00a0 not much<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Oakmoss — Essential oil. Musky, decaying vegetation, leaves, little bit watery.\u00a0 Very light at first.\u00a0 Pungent.\u00a0 Does not emerge.\u00a0 Not durable.\u00a0 Very minimal.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Odin\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 10\u00a0 Roam\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Vanilla, sweet, musky, perfumey, not strong, not durable<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Odin Tanoke\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Grassy, charcoal, pungent\u00a0 +<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Old Spice\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Spicy, somewhat smoky, subdued sweetness which emerges later on, pungent, clean and fresh, fairly durable.\u00a0 One of my all time favorites.\u00a0 Cheap, but very distinctive. \u00a0++<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Oregano — Essential oil.\u00a0 smells like oregano, musty, heavy.\u00a0 Not real durable.\u00a0 Unimpressive.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Oriental Kush —\u00a0 Essential oil.\u00a0 Heavy, flowery, incense, sweet, kind of womanish.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Ormonde \u00a0Jayne Isfarkand\u00a0\u00a0 Very light, non existent<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Oud\u00a0 — Essential oil. Musky, dusky, little bit watery.\u00a0 Not real strong.\u00a0 Increases somewhat with time and becomes perhaps a little more pleasant.\u00a0 Woody.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Parfum d’Empire Ambre Russe\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Smoky, pungent, very durable\u00a0\u00a0 Excellent\u00a0 + +<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Parfum d’Empire\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Fougere Bengale\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Syrupy, little but smoky, not impressed<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Paris LA\u00a0\u00a0 Lab on Fire\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Citrus, lime, fresh, bright, little watery, maybe mint.\u00a0 Becomes somewhat more watery, and sweeter, mild powder, but retains the citrus element.\u00a0 Not particularly durable.\u00a0 Nice but weak.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Pi by Givenchy\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Very sweet, womanish, cheap, tacky, tasteless woman, vanilla.\u00a0 Over much.\u00a0 Can’t stand it.\u00a0 Threw it out.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Prada Pour Homme\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Spicy, little bit sweet, reminiscent of baby powder, but not offensive, very light, not durable, unimpressive<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Profumum Eccelso\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Light Pleasant\u00a0 not durable or distinctive<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Profumium Fumidus\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Smells like rotting potato skins, then later turns smoky.\u00a0 Not half bad.\u00a0 Very durable.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Profumum\u00a0 Olibdanum\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0Grassy\u00a0 Musky\u00a0 mildly offensive<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Puig\u00a0 Vetyver\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0Nothing\u00a0 Unimpressive<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Ramon\u00a0 Monegal\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Agar\u00a0 Musk\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 fresh, light, grassy, watery, pleasant, not strong, very durable, don’t like it<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Robert Piguet\u00a0 Vintage Bandit\u00a0 Edt\u00a0\u00a0 Grassy, motor oil, little bit shit, mildly offensive, not strong, not durable.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Rosemary — Essential oil.\u00a0 Pungent > Turpentine or Eucalyptus, can feel in sinuses.\u00a0 Not durable.\u00a0 Not strong.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Rosewood — Essential oil. \u00a0At first nothing.\u00a0 Couldn’t smell it.\u00a0 Applied a moderate amount.\u00a0 Once it is on the skin the scent begins to emerge.\u00a0 A little bit pine, a little bit woody.\u00a0 Fresh and clean.\u00a0 Not real strong.\u00a0 Seems to develop after a while.\u00a0 Slight sweet smell emerges freshened by the woodiness.\u00a0 Hint of anise could be left over from yesterday although I washed my neck well this morning.\u00a0 Overall, nice, subtle.\u00a0 Not a strong impact.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Salvatore Ferragamo Subtil Pour Homme\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Fresh, clean, light, a little grassy.\u00a0 Not durable.\u00a0 Nothing special.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Salvador Dali\u00a0 Purple Light\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Mothballs, disinfectant.\u00a0\u00a0 Fairly durable.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Santal Carmin\u00a0\u00a0 Atelier Cologne\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0Smoky, incense, wysteria, very light at first.\u00a0 Grows stronger and becomes somewhat powdery.\u00a0 Pleasant, but too sweet and womanish for me.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Sassafras —\u00a0 Essential oil.\u00a0 When I was a kid, sometimes when we visited my cousin we would walk up on the wooded hill behind the town where he lived.\u00a0 We would pull up sassafras saplings and cut the roots off them and bring them home to boil and make tea.\u00a0 The tea was awful.\u00a0 But the smell of the sassafras roots was wonderful.\u00a0 It was a sweet, pungent, clean, woody fragrance.\u00a0 This oil is nothing like that. It is like someone took that sassafras fragrance and painted over it with a translucent gray paint.\u00a0 It is very muted and subdued compared to real sassafras.\u00a0 It is reminiscent of pine and shoe leather.\u00a0 It is clean, but not very strong, not real durable, and nothing like real sassafras which is exhilarating.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Serge Lutens\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Ambre Sultan\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Smoky,\u00a0 incense, vanilla, little bit pungent, kind of sweet, womanish, at first I liked it but turned against it.\u00a0 Arabie is better<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Serge Lutens\u00a0\u00a0 Arabie\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Strong, pungent, spicy, hint maple syrup, hint of leaves, pretty good.\u00a0 Fairly durable +<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

08-08-14\u00a0 A dark, rich, pungent fragrance.\u00a0 Strong tea.\u00a0 Maybe Anise covered w maple syrup or marmalade, a hint of apricot or pomegranate, something vaguely fruity, but way in the background, not pronounced.\u00a0 Compelling.\u00a0 Interesting.\u00a0 Wonderful.\u00a0 ++\u00a0\u00a0 A couple of websites that had this for sale called it “Arabie for Women.”\u00a0 It does not say “for women” on the box it came in or on the label on the bottle.\u00a0 I regard it as a masculine fragrance because of its depth, complexity, and richness, although I suppose a woman could wear it.\u00a0 It would be sexy and alluring on a woman.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

06-01-15\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 It has become one of my favorites.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Serge Lutens\u00a0\u00a0 Chergui\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Musky, herbal, not strong, quickly gives way to soft powder.\u00a0 Not durable.\u00a0 Womanish.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Serge Lutens\u00a0 De Profundis\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Musty grassy repugnant<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Serge Lutens\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Enscense et Lavande\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Light, fresh, clean.\u00a0 Turns smoky.\u00a0 Not very durable\u00a0 +<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Serge Lutens Fourreau Noir\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Smoky, rather strong,\u00a0 very durable\u00a0 compliment from a girl\u00a0\u00a0 ++<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Serge Lutens\u00a0 Gris Clair\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Smoky quality that grows\u00a0\u00a0 +<\/p>\n

Sergei Lutens Muscs Kublai Khan\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Musky like dust not durable<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Serpentine\u00a0\u00a0 Comme des Garcons\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Medicinal, alcohol, little grassy, not much.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Sexiest Scent on the Planet Ever\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Tuesdays\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Musky, spicy, cloves, hint of mint.\u00a0 Later on becomes smoky, clove scent grows, > incense.\u00a0 Fairly durable.\u00a0 I wouldn’t call this sexual but it is very good.\u00a0 ++<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Simply Belle (free sample)\u00a0\u00a0 Fresh, clean, watery, hint of smoke, little bit soapy.\u00a0 Not bad.\u00a0 I usually don’t like this kind of a fragrance, but I don’t mind this.\u00a0 Soapiness increases as we go along — a negative.\u00a0 Fairly durable.\u00a0 +<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

S-Perfumes\u00a0\u00a0 S-ex\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Fresh, clean, musky, woodsy, rather light,\u00a0 vague hint of sweetness or flowers, hint of something herbal: maybe coriander, nutmeg, patchouli?\u00a0\u00a0 Grows stronger, rather spicy, interesting. +<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Tauer\u00a0 L’air du desert Moroccan\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Pungent, not bad<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Terre D’Hermes\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Grassy, fresh, very light.\u00a0 You have to use a goodly amount.\u00a0 It does linger, becomes somewhat pungent.\u00a0 Not half bad.<\/p>\n

Tom Ford\u00a0 Bois Morcaine\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Light, grassy not much<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Tom Ford Grey Vetiver — Grassy, light, not much, hardly noticeable<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Tom Ford\u00a0\u00a0 Patchouli Absolu\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Pungent, smoky, woodsy, strong, very nice, durable.\u00a0 ++<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Tom Ford\u00a0\u00a0 Private Blend Tobacco Vanilla\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Strong vanilla odor\u00a0 sweet\u00a0 womanish\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 fairly durable<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

True Lavender —\u00a0 Essential oil.\u00a0 Clean, herbal, little medicinal, somewhat pungent.\u00a0 Evolves into smooth, polished blend.\u00a0 Spicy, slightly sweet.\u00a0 Very nice.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Une Nuit Magnetique\u00a0 Different Company\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Flowery plus rotting vegetation.\u00a0 Sweet shit.\u00a0 Interesting mix.\u00a0 The sweetness is not overly so and held in check by the earthiness.\u00a0 The whole thing is not very strong.\u00a0 Not durable.\u00a0 Rather weak.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Une Rose de Kandahar\u00a0 Tauer\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Floral, little bit smoky, little bit sweet.\u00a0 Nice\u00a0 Not strong. Turns powdery, but still retains some smokiness.\u00a0 Not durable.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

White Amber — Essential oil.\u00a0 Practically nothing.\u00a0 Musky, little watery.\u00a0 Can hardly smell it.\u00a0 Becomes more decisively watery.\u00a0 Unimpressive.\u00a0 Not durable.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Wit\u00a0\u00a0 Parfums Delrae\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0Clean, somewhat choking,\u00a0 > moth balls, detergent, musky.\u00a0 softens later, becomes less astringent, somewhat powdery.\u00a0 Not terribly appealing, very durable.\u00a0 Lasts all day.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Versace Blue Jeans\u00a0\u00a0 Very light, little bit sweet, little bit powdery,\u00a0 little bit musky, not impressed.\u00a0 Later, increasingly sweet and powdery.\u00a0 Womanish.\u00a0 Dislike.\u00a0 Moderately durable\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Threw it out.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Yves Saint Laurent Body Kouros\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Smoky, but a little too sweet,\u00a0 durable<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de la Homme — Smoky, spicy, rather light, not impressive<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Cleanliness and Fragrances — Review Essay   Fragrance Reviews begin at the end of this essay.\u00a0   Because of the savour of thy good ointments thy name is an ointment…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":124,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"yasr_overall_rating":0,"yasr_post_is_review":"","yasr_auto_insert_disabled":"","yasr_review_type":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[837],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-19014","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","6":"category-joe-cillo"},"yasr_visitor_votes":{"stars_attributes":{"read_only":true,"span_bottom":"